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In the “Seeker’s” Wunderkammer

This seems more like an exploration of the art of detail than a visit to an atelier

by Paola Perfetti
August 23rd, 2014
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In Milan, since 2007, there’s been a place where time stands still, where fine men’s tailoring is an exclusive value shared by connoisseurs of “made to order” suits. Not known to many, it is called Santerasmo Cinque. The name and the address are the same, and the few yards that separate it from the hallowed fashion district, with via Montenapoleone, via Spiga, Villa Perego and piazza San Carlo – “one of the loveliest squares in Milan”, according to Alessandro Leonardi, the atelier’s manager – explain its outlook.

This is the heart of the Italian fashion capital, where tradition coexists with emerging trends.

Here, Santerasmo Cinque plays by the “old rules”, continuing to offer a high end tailoring service geared to meeting the client’s demands. The atelier creates or recovers something that is more than a classically cut men’s suit: stitching, buttonholes, retro and contemporary reverves, vintage-chic seams and fit calibration“serve as inspiration for a concept of bespoke that includes the insertion of traditional tailoring details in newly made articles. To us, bespoke means a renewed rapport with tradition, a lasting relationship with people who will be included in our family clientele”, Leonardi explains.

All in all, this seems more like an exploration of the art of detail than a visit to an atelier. The mannequins, the easy chairs, the suitcases are evidence that this is a “seeker’s den”, and that is how Leonardi sees himself, “because I love to search for new ideas, gleaned from art or furniture design, and see how I can apply them to fashion”. We are in Piazza Sant’Erasmo Cinque, but in a flash we are transported to the London of exclusive antiques, in an art gallery, a furniture showroom and who knows what else; because the search is never-ending. “We have created a series of ad hoc accessories: made to measure ties with unusual retro silks, a vast range of pochettes, shirts, leather accessories, scents and, when the weather turns nicer, even made to measure bicycles”, he tells us. What’s next? – “We intend to expand the entire cashmere tailoring segment, with the collaboration of artisans who weave on ancient looms; we are offering a personalized service that includes a reorganization of the entire wardrobe and remodeling of the individual articles. A bespoken plus”. Waiting to be discovered in a Milanese piazza.

Piazza Sant’Erasmo number 5, that is.

www.santerasmocinque.it

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