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Berluti Menswear: spring-summer 2014

A closer look at the last Berluti’s collection. A newfound penchant for tailoring

by Fabio Attanasio
April 30th, 2014

Russet, red, mustard, eggplant, blue and grey, this is the palette at the last Berluti’s fashion show a Hotel de Sully, in Place de Vosges, Paris. Trousers are cut at the ankles, maxi handbags match the shoes and the whole look, along with bi-coloured monk strap shoes. White and camel hues, double-breasted jackets and peacoats are the protagonists. Just one year ago, the juggernaut in luxury menswear had taken over Anthony Delos and the French tailor Arnys, evident signal of a company strategy aiming at sartorial excellence.

The inspiration behind the collection is “a gentlemen’s gathering during summertime”, as Alessandro Sartori, the company’s creative director, declares. Silhouettes on display are elegant and masculine, but the result could not be different, considered the roots of the creative director Sartori and of the group’s advisor, Jean Grimbert, both heirs of tailors. The collection wiks at a sartorial and classic apparel, yet with updated proportions. A worthy spinning of Arny’s taste.

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